Introduction

The smallest failure in thread performance results in losses on investments in material, equipment, garment engineering, and labour. Hence, it is important to know your thread thoroughly. Enhancing thread knowledge, analysing thread parameters, the right selection procedure and use of thread plays a major role in achieving good sewing performance and the desired seam quality.

This Bulletin Post serves an introduction to the types of threads, the properties, thread construction, and factors affecting thread performance.

What is a sewing thread?

Sewing threads are special kinds of yarns that are engineered and designed to pass through a sewing machine rapidly. They form efficient stitches without breaking or becoming distorted during the useful life of the product. The basic function of a thread is to deliver aesthetics and performance in stitches and seams.

What are the factors that affect functions of a sewing thread?

Factors affecting aesthetics

Colour, lustre and fineness / thickness should be considered while selecting a thread for decorative purposes such as top stitching or embroidery.

Other considerations include:

Hue and shade matching

Colour fastness

Stitch selection

Uniformity of stitch formation

Factors affecting performance

Thread used in garments must be durable enough to withstand the abrasion and needle heat that occur while sewing, garment finishing, stretching and recovery during wear.

Thread performance in garments can be evaluated from its

Seam strength

Abrasion resistance

Elasticity

Chemical resistance

Flammability

Colour fastness

What is 'sewability'?

'Sewability' of thread is a term used to describe a sewing thread’s performance. A thread with good sewability is uniform in diameter with a good surface finish. Longitudinal uniformity of thread contributes to uniform strength and reduced friction, as it passes through the stitch forming mechanisms. It also minimises thread breakages and the associated costs incurred from rethreading machines, repairing stitches and producing inferior quality products.

Sewability parameters

The parameters that define the superior sewability of thread are:

No breakages in high-speed sewing

Consistent stitch formation

No skipped stitches

Evenness, to prevent changes in tension during sewing

A high level of abrasion resistance

Sufficient surface smoothness, to pass easily through the machine guides